Julia Chwalinska juchwalinska@gmail.com
A wide cream hood pulled over a model's head
Via Pinterest, Wet season board
Concept 03 · not yet shot

Wet season

Clothes that look rained on and dried wrong.

Type
Editorial concept
Status
Not yet shot
Links to
Aquascaping, Shadwell Basin
Colour
Bog, olive, lichen, fog
Mood
Damp, heavy, after the storm

Wool that has shrunk on the body, silk with water rings, knit gone heavy with rain, fur that has dried in spikes. The clothes have been through weather and come back changed.

It starts at Shadwell Basin, from Javier Galera’s photographs for Aquascaping, the exhibition I produced: people swimming under the signs that say not to. Here they get out of the water still dressed.

It is a fabric story first. It shows how materials behave, which is what brands look for in a stylist.

Inspiration: where it comes from01
Alexander McQueen, Highland Rape, AW1995
01 Alexander McQueen, Highland Rape, AW1995
Cut lace, fragile edges, deliberate damage. A reference for what happens to the material, not a garment to copy.
The Met ↗
Comme des Garçons, Body Meets Dress, SS1997
02 Comme des Garçons, Body Meets Dress, SS1997
Padding in the wrong places changes the body’s shape. The silhouette of something that dried wrong.
The Met ↗
Maison Martin Margiela, 9/4/1615, Rotterdam, 1997
03 Maison Martin Margiela, 9/4/1615, Rotterdam, 1997
Garments grown with mould, yeast and bacteria during the show. Decay as a collaborator.
UN Projects, Fashioning Decay ↗
Di Petsa, Wetlook
04 Di Petsa, Wetlook
Draping built to look like wet fabric clinging to the body. Suggests water without using any.
Di Petsa ↗
Robert Wun, Fear, SS2023
05 Robert Wun, Fear, SS2023
Couture that looks burnt and stained, made with total precision. Damage as construction.
Robert Wun ↗
Comme des Garçons, Broken Bride, AW2005
06 Comme des Garçons, Broken Bride, AW2005
Ceremonial white made to look aged and creased. Perfection after the event.
Dazed ↗
British Millerain waxed cotton
07 British Millerain waxed cotton
Water beading, wax creases, worn patches. The fabric for the outer shell.
British Millerain ↗
Javier Galera, Shadwell Basin, 2019–23
08 Javier Galera, Shadwell Basin, 2019–23
People swimming in the dock under the signs. The ordinary setting for the story.
Javier Galera ↗

Three kinds of damage, one per look: one garment structurally wrong (Kawakubo), one with an altered surface (Chalayan, Margiela), one that seems to work normally. Wool contracts, silk remembers water, waxed cotton resists. The strongest frame may be a completely dry model beside the water, in clothes that look like they survived a flood.

Also studyBarbican, Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion, 2025–26 ↗Hussein Chalayan, The Tangent Flows, 1993Solitude Studios, bog-submerged cloth, AW2024The Met, Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons, 2017 ↗
Mood: 20 pinsOpen the board ↗
Palette, materials, silhouette03

Bog
#33332D

Olive drab
#716D56

Lichen
#A1A086

Fog
#C2BFB1

Wet stone
#D3D7D7

Mist
#E8E9E6

Moss
#4F5B2E
accent

Pulled from the pixels of the 20 references. The accent is chosen by hand.

Materials
Felted, shrunk wool
Water-marked silk
Heavy wet knit, loops, fringe
Waxed cotton
Mohair and shaggy fur, dried in spikes
Silhouette rules
Weight pulls everything down
Hems uneven, sleeves too long
Textures you want to touch
Skin always slightly damp
Looks, AI mock-ups04

Mock-ups made in ChatGPT to test each look before a shoot. They are not photographs.

AI mock-up of look 1: Waxed coat creased for good, felted wool worn as a shawl, water-marked silk slip dress, black buckled boots
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
01 No swimming
Waxed coat creased for good, felted wool worn as a shawl, water-marked silk slip dress, black buckled boots
AI mock-up of look 2: Huge moss loop-knit hood and jumper, heavy with water, hanging to the knees
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
02 Heavy knit
Huge moss loop-knit hood and jumper, heavy with water, hanging to the knees
AI mock-up of look 3: Waxed hooded cape with eyelets and straps, fishnet tights, shaggy olive fringe leg-warmers dried in clumps over muddy boots, a hip flask and bell pendant
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
03 After the swim
Waxed hooded cape with eyelets and straps, fishnet tights, shaggy olive fringe leg-warmers dried in clumps over muddy boots, a hip flask and bell pendant
Casting, location, shot list05
Casting
Open-water swimmers from London swimming clubs, plus one model
Location
Shadwell Basin (with permission) and an old tiled bathroom or laundrette
Light
Overcast daylight; one low winter sun shot
Hair, make-up
Wet hair, bare skin, no lipstick
Practical
Spray bottles, a water tank, towels and robes for the cast
  1. Wide shot of figures on the dock edge
  2. Full-length dripping
  3. Macro: water rings on silk
  4. Collapsed over a wall
  5. Bathroom, high angle from the corner