Julia Chwalinska juchwalinska@gmail.com
Maison Margiela Artisanal look: face veiled in sheer fabric, a jewelled collar
Maison Margiela Artisanal 2025, look 37
Concept 01 · not yet shot

Amulet

Clothes as protection against something you cannot see.

Type
Editorial concept
Status
Not yet shot
Faces
Always hidden
Colour
White, black, one red
Movement
Guarded, crouched, Butoh

Every look hides the face a different way: coral beads stitched into a veil like a screen, a leather hood that swallows the head, a cloud of smoke. The body is left to speak.

The sources are protection rituals from three worlds that never meet: folk amulets (coral beads, embroidered linen, tattooed forearms worn against harm), punk armour (studs, spikes, belts), and couture anonymity (Margiela's masked faces, McQueen's veils).

Polish roots appear once, as an object, never as costume: a net bag of potatoes held out like an offering.

Inspiration: where it comes from01
Sicanje: protective markings
01 Sicanje: protective markings
Tattoos on women’s hands and forearms among Catholic Croat communities in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The body itself becomes the protective object.
Museum of Sicanje ↗
Eikoh Hosoe, Kamaitachi #26, 1968
02 Eikoh Hosoe, Kamaitachi #26, 1968
Hosoe’s collaboration with Butoh dancer Tatsumi Hijikata. The movement language: low, hunched, interrupted.
IBASHO gallery ↗
Nick Cave, Soundsuit, from 1992
03 Nick Cave, Soundsuit, from 1992
Wearable sculpture of found objects that hides the wearer’s identity and makes sound as the body moves. Decorative, strange and protective at once.
MoMA ↗
Lygia Clark, sensory masks, 1967
04 Lygia Clark, sensory masks, 1967
Masks that change sight, hearing and smell. Is the wearer protecting themselves from the world, or from having to perceive it?
Lygia Clark archive ↗
Maison Martin Margiela, Artisanal AW2012
05 Maison Martin Margiela, Artisanal AW2012
Embroidered masks over the whole face. The reference for a veil built from beads.
Vogue Runway ↗
Alexander McQueen, VOSS, SS2001
06 Alexander McQueen, VOSS, SS2001
Bandaged, medical heads. Vulnerability and confinement.
V&A ↗
Polish korale
07 Polish korale
Red coral passed down the maternal line, worn against illness and spells. The one Polish detail.
State Ethnographic Museum, Warsaw ↗
Magdalena Abakanowicz, Crowd (Tłum), 1986–94
08 Magdalena Abakanowicz, Crowd (Tłum), 1986–94
Headless figures in resin-hardened sackcloth. The reference for the final group frame: five figures, each protected differently from the same unseen thing.

Sicanje is a Bosnian and Croatian tradition, not a Polish one, so it is a reference for meaning, not symbols to copy; the markings on set will be original. The Polish thread is the korale and Abakanowicz. Possible last frame: every protective object laid on the floor, the five figures behind them, faces visible for the first time.

Also studyLucy Orta, Refuge Wear, from 1992London Museum: witch bottles and concealed shoes ↗Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen, AW2009 ↗Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, SEX spiked court shoes ↗
Mood: 20 pinsOpen the board ↗
Palette, materials, silhouette03

Soot
#181A1C

Dried blood
#523232

Ash
#6F6864

Pewter
#8A8F96

Bone
#CAC8C5

Chalk
#F3F3F3

Coral red
#A3201B
accent

Pulled from the pixels of the 20 references. The accent is chosen by hand.

Materials
Washed linen, unhemmed
Cotton lace, net, tulle
Coral and glass beads
Black leather, studs, spikes
Hand-drawn ink on skin
Silhouette rules
Covered face, exposed hands
Volume on the head and shoulders
Long white base, one hard black piece
Red only as an object: beads, a thread, lips
Looks, AI mock-ups04

Mock-ups made in ChatGPT to test each look before a shoot. They are not photographs.

AI mock-up of look 1: Coral beads stitched into a gauze veil like a screen, torso bound in raw linen strips like old bandages, torn linen skirt, heels with metal claw toes, a guarded crouch
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
01 The veil
Coral beads stitched into a gauze veil like a screen, torso bound in raw linen strips like old bandages, torn linen skirt, heels with metal claw toes, a guarded crouch
AI mock-up of look 2: Black leather hood that swallows the head and shoulders, silver spikes down the spine, track trousers, studded belt
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
02 Hood and spikes
Black leather hood that swallows the head and shoulders, silver spikes down the spine, track trousers, studded belt
AI mock-up of look 3: Face lost in smoke, a black net bag of ordinary potatoes held out at arm’s length, black wool coat with huge shoulders worn open, washed linen shift, bare feet, a low Butoh crouch
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
03 The offering
Face lost in smoke, a black net bag of ordinary potatoes held out at arm’s length, black wool coat with huge shoulders worn open, washed linen shift, bare feet, a low Butoh crouch
Casting, location, shot list05
Casting
Three models: androgynous, unusual bodies welcome, one older woman (60+)
Location
Whitewashed church hall or empty community hall; alternative: forest edge at dusk, Epping
Light
Flat grey daylight, or one hard flash
Hair, make-up
Hair scraped back or hidden; red lips only where the face shows
Crew
Photographer, HMU, one assistant
  1. Full-length, high angle from the corner of the room
  2. Three figures together, faces hidden, hands touching
  3. Detail: inked forearms
  4. Detail: beads over eyes
  5. Crouched Butoh pose against a wall